The Suri Alpaca - A Step Beyond

There are two types of alpacas that are differentiated primarily by their fibre form. The suri's fibre grows parallel to the body and hangs in long, separated locks. (Sort of like dreadlocks!) "The Suri carries a silky, soft-handling, dense, locking fleece that moves freely, yet hugs the body giving the animal a flat-sided appearance. The fleece hangs from a centre part…with well-defined locks forming close to the skin and twisting uniformly to the ends. The overall effect is similar to the drape of a curtain of silk tassles." (Sandi Keane - Breed Standard)
To get the terminology correct, a woolly-fleeced alpaca (with fibre of similar characteristics to a sheep) is called a huacaya (whua'ka'ya) and represents the majority of alpacas. The dread-locked alpaca is called a suri (soo'ree). Both breeds are alpacas and are anatomically identical with the ONLY difference in the type of fleece they produce.

Why breed Suris?

The suri alpaca represents less than 10% of the Australian alpaca population and less than 5% of the world alpaca population. "To put the world supply of alpaca fibre into perspective it is important to note that animal fibres only make up 3% of all fibres used. Total world production of all animal fibres is probably 5 million tomes per annum of this less than 5,000 tonnes is alpaca." Suri fibre comprises only 10% of the alpaca fibre produced with the total standing at only 500 tonnes per annum. "Further to this point, it can be seen that the better alpaca types make up only a tiny proportion of total world fibre production. Quality alpaca is truly a rare fibre." (Alan Hamilton-Director Elite Fibre, Pty Ltd)

Additionally, most suris are white. However, more recently, some Australian breeders have successfully interbred the suri with coloured huacaya alpacas in an effort to increase the number of coloured suris. "The colours range through all shades of grey, fawn and brown, white and black. While it is expected that in commercial fibre producing situation, perhaps 70% of the national herd would be white, the natural colours offer a unique marketing tool. The fact that the colours do not have to be dyed is both a significant cost saving and also has benefits eliminating the discharge of dye waste into the drainage system." (Alan Hamilton)
From a management perspective, the suri offers several advantages. Firstly, the open fleece across the back line renders the heat of our harsh Australian summer more tolerable. (To be fair, they can be more susceptible in extreme winter temperatures for the same reason). Second, suri fleeces are often a few centimeters longer than the huacaya. The suri fibre also contains less medullation and greater uniformity of micron. Therefore, with the exception of the legs and belly, the entire fleece is placed in one bag. This feature saves time on the shearing floor and provides greater returns when the fleece is sold.

What is the potential for Suri Fibre?

The characteristics of the magnificent suri fleece are usually described using words like lock structure or the architecture of the fleece, lustre and weight. Lock structure refers to the tightness of the dreadlocks, and for the show ring, the tighter, the better. Lustre is a determination of how well the fleece reflects the sunlight, the intensity of which is unique to the suri. This can be determined best right at the skin where dust is minimal. Weight is a determination of density and, in addition to fineness, ultimately of grower's returns.

Beatriz Canedo Patino, a leading Bolivian designer, puts alpaca into perspective.
"The alpaca cloth, known as 'The Other Gold of the Incas' by the Spanish conquistadors, is also called 'Nature's Miracle Cloth'. The elegant appearance of this rich fabric is striking: it is velvety soft to the touch, silky and highly lustrous, as well as being particularly light. These qualities are complemented by the fabric's extreme durability. The unique alpaca cloth retains its superior look throughout the years, the fibre being naturally restorative. With minimal care and soft brushing the cloth fibres regain their original beauty year after year. In addition, alpaca is water-repellent because of the fibre's natural lanolin content. Finally, alpaca is insulating and has outstanding thermostatic qualities. It keeps the wearer cool in the summer and warm in the winter, allowing the body to breathe."
Suri fibre is in high demand for its superb lustre, light weight and exquisite softness. Leading designers believe it to be the finest and most elegant material in the world. It has a particularly sensual feel and appears almost luminous. Maria Bravo (an American designer committed to the alpaca) believes it to be the most sensual and luxurious fibre in the world. When compared with cashmere or mohair, Beatriz Patino remarks "I love cashmere, but suri has certain qualities that make it finer than cashmere. It has beautiful sheen; it is very durable and very light. Cashmere can lose its lustre after a couple of years whereas suri retains it for decades. The consumer also prefers alpaca to mohair because of the status and richness of the fibre."
These traits must be exploited in the products that are created using suri. The higher cost and scarcity of suri mandates that it be used in special heavy fabrics that will last forever. It is used for manufacturing luxurious coats, capes and blazers. Long coats, capes and wraps are also the best way to emphasize the softness and richness of the natural colours and calls special attention to the unique draping quality of suri fibre. Adding to its versatility, suri is also used in blazers, hats, scarves, bedspreads, quilts and sport jackets. However, the true expression of suri luminosity is evident in hand-woven yarns and scarves where the feel of the cloth is magical, almost sinful.
Although it is a richer fibre, suri is also known among spinners as being difficult to work with.
Since suri has hairs it must be treated like velvet and at the same time, because of it's softness, it needs to be treated like silk. Therefore it sometimes slides or sponges in the manufacturing process, which is difficult to control. However, the finished product is definitely worth the extra effort.
Fashions are always changing. For now, ecology is definitely in, and therefore are the natural colours. Suri is becoming known as "the green fur". It is the only natural fibre used for fur that does not require an animal to be slaughtered. Beatriz says alpaca offers the raw material to create both beautiful and practical garments in the same piece. A coat must not only look good, but also protect you. It has to be very functional. Classical styles also lend credit to the longevity of the alpaca fibre.
Michelle Wyles sums it up best when she says, "Suris are rather unlikely looking possessors of the finest, shiniest and most desirable dreadlocks that, until lately, were the well-kept secret of the high Andes."